Winter 2019–Cape York & Back 12

Ellendale Pool is quite a nice spot, although the all too familiar comment, “there was a lot more water in here last year”, applies yet again.

The boabs are quite prolific but there is a stand of three near our van which are quite photogenic.   Evening photo first and another in the morning.

P1010372  P1010378

Like most people we had to go and see if we could see the croc that is supposed to be in the pool.   We thought it looked too shallow for a croc but Brad saw it this morning.   This is amazing as the nearest open water is several ks away!

A bower bird had made its ‘bower’ under some bushes nearby.   These birds collect things, mostly white in WA but often different colours in other states, this one had a few bits of green glass and, of all things, a metal shackle! 

P1010369  P1010373  

Our site seemed quite noisy early on but we didn’t hear anything during the night.

Friday 12th July

This morning we are going to have another pretty short day but before we go we meet up with Millie, a friendly bovine who follows people around.   This morning she followed Denise back from the pool and was rewarded with a carrot by Denise and an apple from Brad.

P1010377

Today we are heading for a spot on the Fitzroy River that we have told of by another Bushtracker owner at Ellendale Pool but first we stop off at Willare Roadhouse for a coffee and to buy some potatoes.

Then once across the wide single file bridge we have to find a gate which gives access to a private property which we are allowed to cross.   The first gate leads us to a very tight track and we decide that this is not the right place and have to turn round, not that easy towing a caravan, and head back to the main road.

Further down the road is another track which turns out to be more likely and after about three ks we see a camp area that is already occupied, going on we come to a deep creek with a steep exit which would almost certainly bottom out the BT.  We turn round and backtrack again and discover the most perfect spot, high enough above the water to not have to worry about the crocs (of which there are lots).

It is really quite perfect, sitting above the river as the sun goes down, then having a canopy of stars above, we spotted ten satellites tonight which is pretty good considering we are only four days away from the full moon and surrounded by trees.

Saturday 13th Jul

It is so peaceful and quiet here we slept in this morning, most unusual for us but then we’re not going anywhere today.   This  really is a beautiful spot.   By mid afternoon, the other two sets of people who were camping in this area have left so we have the whole place to ourselves, they were over 200m away anyway so we couldn’t see or hear them. Roger tries some fishing and then we all go exploring along the Fitzroy river.

Fitzroy R Campsite  P1010381  Prawn Swimming Lessons  P1010383

 P1010384  Crab Bait

A Paperbark Flycatcher and a Northern (Blue Winged) Kookaburra.

P1010385  Northern Kookaburra

Sunday 14th July

We are reluctant to leave the campsite this morning, it is so peaceful with no flies or bugs to speak of but the girls want to get some washing done and we really need to be within striking distance of Broome tomorrow.    We’re booked into the van park at Roebuck Roadhouse, we don’t expect too much peace as it is on a very busy road junction and lots of road trains stop in here for fuel.

We did have a bit of excitement, Pat was over at the laundry and Roger was in the caravan, when the van started to shake, he went outside expecting to see Brad rocking the caravan in jest but Brad came out expecting to see Roger rocking their van.   They both stood and watched the vans and the vehicles rocking quite a lot on their springs.   Pat was hanging the washing out and thought the washing machines on spin were making the concrete slab vibrate.   Apparently there was a 6.8 submarine earthquake off the coast from Port Hedland!

This site is at the junction of the Great Northern Hwy and the road into Broome so there are road trains passing every few minutes, either accelerating out of the road junction or decelerating to go into it or out of the fuel station or just going past.   We expect a restless night.

In fact it’s not so bad the trucks seem to stop running around 2230 and we didn’t hear another one until about 0530 which was pretty good.

Monday 15th July

Pat woke up a day older this morning and we were under way quite early (for us anyway) heading for Broome.   On the way Denise managed to get us a couple of sites at the PCYC, an overflow camp site, as everything in Broome is full at this time of year, with school holidays.

We arrive there to find the sites are bigger than expected, we accepted the sites with no power but there is water.   We get settled in and then go to the butcher’s shop that has crocodile meat and then find Bunnings. Getting back to camp the meat is stashed away in the fridge out of the heat and we walk up to Town Beach for coffee.   It is very pleasant sitting by the beach drinking coffee!  Back to the van to resort the meat and freeze most of it before we go off up town for lunch at Shady Lane Cafe, the food is OK but the order taking is not very accurate!   

Roger booked a taxi at three o’clock for a four o’clock pick up, at 1610 he rang and was told there would be one as soon as possible, by 1630 they still couldn’t give a pick up time!   Brad decided he would drive and we set out for Cable Beach and Zander’s restaurant.   We needed to be there early to grab a table because it is very popular, you can’t book tables for less than 8 people,and we wanted to watch the sun go down, we were lucky.

This was Pat’s birthday meal so we started out with a bottle of wine and a little later ordered a sort of pizza to nibble with the wine.     We eventually ordered dinner and another bottle of wine, poor old Brad was having to be a bit abstemious (as the driver) and dipped out a bit on a rather nice Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (Single File).

P1010389  P1010390  P1010395  P1010403

P1010405  Our mains were excellent and we ordered another bottle to drink while we watched Brad eat his pud!

Tuesday 16th July

Repairing the bottle drawer was my main aim this morning but shopping was the priority because we need to stock up for the next two weeks as we will probably not be going near anywhere that has a Coles or Woolies or any other supermarket, until we get home.

Shopping complete Pat has to find somewhere to  put it all and I get on with the drawer repairs.   Then it’s time to go down to Town Beach for lunch.   After lunch the cellar needs stocking up for the same reason as we’re even less likely to see a decent bottle shop!

We decide to stay another night so we don’t have to do anything in a hurry and then it’s time to head down to Cable Beach again, this time to sit on the beach and watch the sun go down, with a glass of wine, of course!   Passing an RBT on the way reminds us drivers to go easy on the wine.

There are hundreds of cars on the beach but it’s not oppressively crowded – it is a big beach!  Camel rides are very popular, there are three strings of camels, with about twenty camels in each. 

P1010409  P1010410  P1010420  P1010434

The sunsets are pretty spectacular in WA and Cable Beach is no exception.

P1010437  P1010430   On top of the that, the moon is rising behind the dunes.  P1010421

This was a really special experience.

Wednesday 17th July

A sort of rest day today, pottered a bit and filled up with diesel.   Then decided to go to the Old Zoo Café for morning tea and a croissant.  Followed by a visit to the Willy Creek Pearl shop which just happened to be next door! the girls couldn’t resist buying something. Back at camp and feeling extremely decadent we went out again, back to Town Beach for lunch.   Frank and Marie just happened to be passing after their morning stroll so they joined us for lunch.   By the time we got back to the caravan, there was just time for a shower before we set out to walk back to Town Beach, this time to watch the moon rising over the sea and the wet sand, which with the tide out, creates a phenomena known as the ‘stairway to the Moon’.   On the way we visit the markets that are set up just behind the foreshore and buy a print for the wall in the family room when it gets redecorated.   We join all the people already at the beach with their chairs, nibbles and drinks waiting for the moon to come up. (We didn’t take the chairs and wine tonight as we were walking).

P1010442  P1010444  P1010454   Then it’s back to the caravan park and a couple of glasses and some satellite spotting.

Thursday 18th July

We have a long day (for us anyway) today, as we want to try to get to Eighty Mile Beach, some 350 ks. away. This is the start of our journey south.  The road is good and we do jolly well for time, including stops for morning tea, lunch and afternoon tea along the way.   We make it by about 1645 and by the time we have got set up it is time to go down to the beach for a another sunset, you never tire of them!

I was hoping to be able to have a swim but the tide is a long way out, further than Broome.   It is a beautiful beach.

P1010461  P1010463  P1010466   Terrible satellite spotting tonight, only six! too much light pollution!

Leave a comment