Friday 19th April – Day 1

We had planned to leave at 1000 and were actually about to achieve that when the rain that we had been having returned with a vengeance and we had to abandon loading the last items on the list for ten minutes!   We started on our way with Sue waving us goodbye from her veranda.

The traffic wasn’t too bad, so even though we had to circumnavigate Perth to get to the Great Eastern Hwy we arrived at Gary and Vikki’s place in Northam in good time.   This was where we were meeting up with Brad and Denise, our travelling companions.   Vikki had prepared a sumptuous lunch so it was good that we weren’t travelling very far in the afternoon.  

We arrived at Minivale where you can camp on the old tennis courts.   The wind was bitter, we braved it long enough for a cup of tea and even longer for a glass of wine but eventually we ran out of cold weather gear and repaired to the caravans where the diesel heaters had been busy warming the insides for us.

Saturday 20th April

This morning was beautiful, blue skies with not a cloud but the wind was still bitter.  We stopped in Trayning another dying wheatbelt town, for morning tea.

   Heading east again we stopped at Carollin Rock for lunch.   This is ‘rock’ country, granite outcrops, rounded by glaciers, they stand out in the flat wheatbelt lands.   They are popular places for camping; there is shelter in the bush round the base of the rocks, good walks around and up them and great views from the top.    Many were used to supply water to nearby towns.   A short wall was built round the base of the rock which directed rainfall to a collection point and from there into a dam.   Pumps then pumped the water to the nearby town(s) or homesteads.

      

After lunch we’re making for Bullfinch and then turning north towards Menzies.   Before long the wheatbelt is behind us and we’re into the north-eastern goldfields.   The bush changes completely here because all the trees were cut down for pit props, railway sleepers and firewood.   As a result the trees, mostly red gums are very short, a maximum of 4 metres.    Here and there are the mullock heaps where mines were worked.   About 4 o’clock we pick a camping spot by Lake Deborah East and collect firewood, a fire is necessary still because as the sun goes down it gets very cold very quickly and sitting drinking wine before dinner is much more comfortable!   The fire was still going strong and we reconvened after dinner to a nice glass of port, provided by Brad and Denise.  

Sunday 21st April

Another lovely morning as we continue northeast to Menzies where we decide to top up with fuel before moving on to Niagara Dam for the night.

        

After we turn off the the main drag we stop to collect firewood as we know there won’t be any at Niagara.   We have been here before and expected that it would be quite crowded, it being the Easter weekend but, no, there is plenty of space and before long we have a good fire going  and before you know it, it’s wine o’clock!

Monday 22nd April

Heading for Laverton initially today because we have to get permits to cross the Great Central Road which transits aboriginal lands.   It is also the last place to get reasonably priced fuel, currently $1.82 / litre.   We also top up our water tanks but it is only a precaution as we’ll only be three or four days on this track.   After all the admin and a light lunch we’re off again, this time it’s only 50ks to our selected campsite the Giles Breakaways.    This is one of our favourite night stops, the scenery is spectacular, as always the photos can’t do it justice.

   

Three satellites spotted last night in the hemisphere of stars that make these trips memorable.

Tuesday 23rd April

A late start today having to fix Brad’s water pump which proved to be a little longer job than anticipated.   Got away about 1000 and continued towards Alice.

The road runs roughly between the Gibson Desert to the north and the Great Victorian Desert to the south, presenting contrasting attributes, between the bright red sand hills, azure blue sky and pale yellow / green spinifex to the north and the stubby trees and grasslands to the south.

There is not much water out here where it does occur it can be found in gnamma holes, which are often just shallow holes in the rock.   The aboriginals know where these gnamma holes are and they usually block them with rocks to prevent the larger animals from getting in them.   We find one at White Cross,close to a cave that has been / is? used by the aboriginals judging by the wall paintings, which in this case are not particularly good.

    A gnamma hole with water, protected by a rock.      Tonight we’re camping at Nulley Soak another spot that we have used before and which is quite popular judging by the distance we have to go for firewood.   Only two satellites tonight.