Winter 2022 – Homeward bound – sort of

Monday 18th July

We are all leaving this morning, the others north to 80 Mile Beach and some ice creams, us south and starting our journey home, only about 2000ks to go!

Leaving the de Grey is always a sad thing, this is probably our most favourite spot in WA, certainly up in the East Pilbara. We have published many photos of this place but it always looks different.

Just after leaving the river we saw a truck loading cattle the driver waved to us so we thought we would just say hallo. Roger went back to talk to the chap, turned out he was the station owner from Yarrie, so now we had met him and his wife. I told him we were very grateful that they hadn’t had to lock the place up, as his wife had thought they might. He said that they had considered it and, if they did, they would make some arrangement so that people like us could still get access. This was really good news and we went on our way, happy campers.

We now had an hour’s run into Marble Bar for fuel and water, then a fairly long run (for us) to Roy Hill our night stop.

We think that we have an issue with our tank filling system which we’ll try to check out in Newman.

Last year we got the rig covered in red mud because they were watering the road at Nullagine and would you believe… yes, we copped again this year albeit not quite so bad!

Tuesday 19th July

Another few ks today into Newman for shopping, although the delivery trucks haven’t come in the shelves are pretty empty. We are unable to check the water issue due to others wanting to fill up.

We camped to night at Hidden Gem a long way back from the road before going to bed we noticed some lights which at first sight appreared to be encroaching from the east. Bear in mind the road is a km away and there is usually no-one else for 40-50 ks so we are always aware of bush fires and / or other potential issues, so we just packed most of the stuff ready to leave in a hurry if necessary. After a bit more discussion we decided that the lights were almost certainly a mine site even further away than first thought. We went bed and slept well!

Wednesday 20th July

We now had a problem, we weren’t sure how much water we had (there are no level indicators) and we know there is none in Wiluna or, it seems, anywhere down through the goldfields.

So a change of plan is necessary, we decide to go back to Karalundi, where we know they have water and fill our tanks there, then on Friday we can head for Wiluna or Sandstone from Meeka’. Most of the Goldfields Hwy is sealed so we should be OK.

Here is the mystery photo – answers on a $5 note……………….

The question marks are quite pertinent since we are not sure at this point where we are headed.  We are now confident of our water supply so we can go down through the goldfields if we wish.  We shall go to Meeka and refuel but the threat of rain has left with an issue of roads getting closed and unsuitable tracks.

By the time we are ready to leave Meeka we have been gathering information and are happy to head for Wiluna.   This road is sealed in some places but not in others but it is well graded and we find it is easy going.  It is about 180 ks to Wiluna through beautiful bush country and there is very little traffic mostly haul road trains.    So we are surprised to see a caravan approaching and a Bushtracker at that, we get on the UHF and it turns out to be Peter and Rosalie, who we know well!!!   Of course, we both turn round and head back toward each other and have a good old yarn, talking travelling, vehicles, health…………   

This is one of the great things about the ‘Bushtacker club’ as it were, easily recogisable and always something to discuss.

We had no great expectations of Wiluna and were not disappointed!    We headed north out of town about 10ks than turned off into the bush for another 8ks where we found North Pool.  

North Pool in the Evening

We looked the camping site and decided that we would camp just this side of a muddy creek.   Roger walked into the site and found another caravan in there and also discovered that you could go up and around to get there without getting muddy!   We decided to stay where we were and have a fire.

P & R + fire

In the morning we went for a walk and met the people in the caravan, Colin & Pru, who are from South Yunderup, not far from us between Mandurah and Pinjarra.    Colin was just lifting his yabbie nets and had a pretty good haul.

Morning view of the pool.

North Pool in the morning

We headed back to Wiluna to top up with fuel, the rule of the outback is to top up when you can, you could have fuel to get to the next service but it’s possible that they haven’t had a delivery!

The Canning Stock Route is a 2000 k trck that was used by the cattlemen in the Kimberley and the Northern Territory to bring their herds down to Perth / Fremantle. It is a very rough track for its whole length and you would not get any sort of caravan down it.

So this is very bit of tongue in cheek and I sent it to our other Bushtracker friends with the caption ‘who said you can’t get a BT down the CSR’. Caused a little mirth!

In fact the last 100 or so ks into Wiluna is caravanable.

The road out of Wiluna to the east is called the Gunbarrel Hwy, it was pushed through in the 50s by a surveyor called Len Beadell an amazing character, who with his crew consisted of a bulldozer and grader each with a driver and a truck driver / cook made thousands of ks of roads through the bush in South Australia and WA.    The roads were a grid designed to provide access to the rocket scientists and engineers who experimenting with rocketry out of Woomera.    If you get a chance read some of his (Len Beadell’s) books, his adventures the stuff of Boys Own +++.

We were looking for a Station called Gunbarrel Laager but could not find it, next time we’ll ring to see what the situation is and whether we can go there. Just out of Wiluna is an aboriginal community!!!!!

Down the Goldfields Hwy now looking for a night stop and find a place Lake Way Rest Area which is up on hill and has good views over the surrounding countryside. We have a slow leak in one of the caravan tyres so Roger takes the opportunity to change it.

When we get up in the morning we find we have a flat on the Landcruiser!! Roger thinks its likely to be a malfunctioning tyre pressure monitor, so reinflates the tyre to see what happens. An hour later it is still holding pressure so we will run with it and head toward Leinster.

Leinster is a mining town and there for no other reason, so most places are open on a Sunday. We only need fuel and as in many places now it is a self-serve system. This one is very nice condition and actually prints receipts, a first on this trip!

On the way out of Leinster we take a look at the old mining town of Agnew. Sadly everything has been flattened, including a very well know pub which was on closed in 2017 and bulldozed the following year. I suppose its impossible to preserve all these old mining towns but there is so much history that has disappeared. All that is left is some old machinery.

Sandstone is next place of import, about 180ks to the west, by mid’ afternoon we have found a place to stop called the Peter Duffy Lookout. This is actually a very scenic breakaway but the wind is icy again. No fire tonight!

In the morning we get into Sandstone, top up with diesel and continue our trip. We decided on the dirt road to Paynes Find. The beginning of the road is exceptionally smooth and we comment that it has been graded recently. After about 50ks we catch up with the grader and say good morning. Even where it hasn’t been graded it is poor in a few places and we have a leisurely drive into Paynes find.

We have a good signal here so catch up on a few phone calls etc. Would you believe I can’t get a Doctor’s appointment for three weeks!

Out of Paynes find we elect for another dirt road down towards the rain but for the time being we have beautiful blue skies.

The desert it beginning to bloom, since some rain has been through here;

The wild flowers will continue to flourish until later in the year and we are going to try to get up here again in September, hopefully to see them at their best.

Wednesday 27th July

Today we awoke from a very cold night to another beautiful day of clear blue skies.

We’ll keeping having short easy days until we hit the rain and then it’ll be a dirty dive for home!

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